Pitti Uomo

Inside the menswear event where
quality style is key.

A Sartorial Sprint
in Florence

Written and Produced by Emilie Hawtin
Photography by Jamie Ferguson

On a balmy summer day in Florence, Italy, men in linen suits are everywhere. They're in town for Pitti Uomo, a remarkable celebration of style and craftsmanship that happens every June and January. "Pitti," as it's called, is technically a menswear trade fair where hundreds of tailors, makers, editors, buyers, and global brands, particularly from Japan and Europe, come together for one week. Everyone here is in a good mood. The fair is based inside the walls of Fortezza da Basso, a fourteenth-century fort, where more than eight hundred brands set up shop across multiple buildings. It's a labyrinth of handmade shoes and point-collar shirts, thematically divided between classic, future, and dynamic. International buyers place orders, editors uncover trends, photographers have a field day, and enthusiasts come alive. While this might all sound similar to any fashion week, Pitti prioritizes quality over trends.

Here textile mills hold court, and brands, old and new, evolve time-tested practices. Fox Brothers 1772, the English cloth mill, is a refined resource for better-known luxury brands but their approach at Pitti is characteristically unfussy: relaxed dinners for close friends overlooking the Ponte Vecchio. Stile Latino, a Neapolitan tailoring brand that's an enduring highlight at the fair, defines elegant ease. When they took to the stage this year, one night at Harry's Bar The Garden, with electric guitars in hand, their hilariously tie-loosening musical performance was unexpected and applauded.

These are quality-obsessed people who have fun and look great, but their traditions with each other matter most. Some wake up early for a pre-fair cycle or group run. Most prioritize convivial dinners at Trattoria Cammillo or Sostanza—two Florentine institutions coveted for their authenticity.

After attending the fair for years, what I appreciate the most now is seeing nuanced style in a beautiful city and connecting with brands big and small. The fair is so extensive that it can feel overwhelming for anyone, but it's easy to take things in at your own pace. I beeline for Brunello Cucinelli, the prophet of Pitti, and up-and-coming brands like Rovi Luca. People here are in the spirit and open to spending time.

Overall, the tailoring crowd creates a visual landscape on the cobblestone streets that many people envision before visiting Florence but fail to find. There are flashier dressers in the crowd, but the best dressed are subtly appointed–their style draws you in.

We saw this style in spades on the attendees at our own Pitti event at Circolo del Tennis de Firenze 1898, a classic Florentine tennis club with orange clay courts. Here, fair-goers from all over gathered for a sunrise run and breakfast before suiting up for the day. We presented an edit of our collection, centered on pieces that balance style and performance with attention to quality details. Over singlets and coffee, surrounded by locals playing tennis, we enjoyed conversations with sartorial veterans and new friends who we'll certainly be back to see.

In Conversation